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Details
- Price $225 on outlier.nyc
- Material 96% nylon and 4% elastane
- Fabric Weight 360gsm
- Woven in Sweden
Overview
I've had a long history with Outlier even before starting this website, with the Outlier New Way Shorts as my gateway to technical wear.
After you think that you've tried it all and you don't need anymore beyond the Strong Dungarees, Outlier surprises me with pant after pant even if they just switch it up a little like in my recent review of the Outlier Bombpaints.
While Outlier often releases what I would like to think of statement pieces; experiments like the Outlier Injected Linen Poncho that make a statement as to who they are as a brand, the Bomb Dungarees would be what I consider a staple piece.
The Bomb Dungarees begun as an experiment, specifically #242. Experiments are what Outlier call their limited run to “test the market”. If these pieces see enough demand, they graduate into regular offering, which is what happened to the Bomb Dungarees.
For long-time Outlier fans, Outlier's product names often tell you what the product is. In this case, the “Bomb” refers to the material they call Bombtwill, while “Dungarees” refers to the five-pocket pant style also used in products like the legendary Slim Dungarees.
Having already tried pants with similar materials and style, it's not hard to imagine the kind of experience you will get from the Bomb Dungarees, but here goes…
Style
When you see the “Dungarees” in the product name, you can already draw an image from pants like Slim Dungarees, These are basically a heavier version of the Slim Dungarees and Strong Dungarees.
Dungaree actually refers to the cloth that was originated from 17th century India and was named after the Hindi name of the Indian village that produced it, called “Dungri”. It was the English who brought over these workwear trousers and added a British twist to the name.
In American English, “dungaree” doesn't refer to the cloth, but the style of work trousers made in the fabric.
In Outlier's terms, dungarees style of pants are a five-pocket pants that expresses the hardwearing qualities that the original dungaree, cloth or style, represents.
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The Bomb Dungarees come in different color, but only the bluetint gray is available at the time of this review. As someone who exclusively wears black, I was thankful to be able to get my hands on the black version. As expected from Outlier, the black is consistently applied, even to the smallest details like rivets and buttons, for their signature minimalist aesthetics.
The Outlier version is slightly tapered down from the knees for a modern look that can take you from the factory to the bar. They are are slim but with adequate leeway considering the heavier fabric, thus not skinny.
With the exception of what looks like less of a taper, the style doesn't change much from versions with different material like the Slim Dungarees or Strong Dungarees.
Compared to Workcloth (on the Outlier Slim Dungarees) and the Strongtwill (on the Outlier Strong Dungarees), the Bombtwill is a much heavier fabric. With heavier fabrics, there is increased durability, but at the cost of freedom of movement. Even with the same amount of stretch, heavier fabrics feel like they stretch less.
Outlier has always been consistent with their sizing and has considered the heavier weight went calibrating the sizes. So, I would advise you to go true to size but size up if you are in between sizes. I got a size 33. I was previously a size 32 but please let me blame the pandemic for binge-eating to make up for the lack of travel.
The size 33 was the right choice but as expected, there isn't as much stretch around the waist compared to lighter weights. For those who rely on the stretch of the waist to fit into their current pant sizes should consider sizing up. After all, the workwear style of the pants does look better in a relaxed fit.
Like most Outlier Pants, the length is relatively long to allow for hemming. Because of the tough fabric, it doesn't look good bunched up at your ankles and at 6'0″ in height, I would roll it up twice to get my desired length.
Material
The material used in the Bomb Dungarees is Bombtwill. I rarely see this material being used, with the only other time I witnessed it is on one of my favorite Outlier pieces, the Outlier Bombpaints.
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The Bombtwill was designed to be a tougher version of Strongtwill, which is found on hits like the Outlier Strong Dungarees and Outlier Strongdarts. The Bombtwill uses a thicker stretch version of what was used on Strongtwill to make it tougher and denser. As such, it is a 360gsm fabric weight compared to the 300gsm for Strongtwill.
For Strong Dungarees owners, it would be easy to imagine the Bombtwill as slightly thicker, with more structure. While the amount of elastane is the same at 4%, the added rigidity naturally makes it less easy to move in compared to the Strong Dungarees.
Like most of Outlier pants, the Bomb Dungarees are finished with a Zelan R3 DWR. The finish is the first renewably sourced, non-fluorinated repellent finish that is up to three times more durable than original non-fluorinated repellents. While, from my experience, the DWR on Outlier pants last a long time, the treatment will eventually wear out and you would have to replenish it using something like Nikwax Waterproofing.
Usage
While most of Outlier pants are buy-it-for-life quality, the Bomb Twill is virtually indestructible. I would have no problems wearing this to a warzone and back.
I've just watched the documentary “Freeload” about train-hopping vagabonds and I can totally imagine the Bomb Dungarees as the perfect one-pant for such a lifestyle, albeit grossly above budget for tramp, bums and most hobos.
The Bomb Dungarees has five pockets—two side pockets and two on the back.
Within the right pocket, there is a smaller pocket, slanted for easier access.
Because of the heavier fabric weight, this would not be my first choice when heading to somewhere tropical like Singapore or Thailand. In fact, if you own pants like the Outlier Futuredarts or Outlier Slim Dungarees or even better, the Outlier Injected Linen Pants, the Bomb Dungarees would not be a choice at all unless you like having sweaty balls.
Even with the two-way stretch, the heavier fabric weight is not something you can ignore. Just think of it as a pair of workpants and you'll be able to imagine the situations you can put it on.
Compared to fabrics like the Workcloth or Strongtwill, the Bombtwill feels less technical and has a noticeably rustic quality to it. With extended wear, it will develop a patina that I, as an ex-denimhead, can appreciate. While Strongtwill and Bombtwill are similar materials, it is largely the weight and perhaps, the influence of years of wearing Japanese selvage denim that feels the same, that makes me feel this way.
The Bombtwill is also a fabric with a lot of texture. This means that you won't get a soft comfy feeling like with pants that use softer fabrics like the Outlier Injected Linen Pants. Instead, you will experience the light, but not neglible, grind of a tough-as-nails fabric against your skin.
I have a Suntory-fueled beer belly that sticks out slightly over the waist of the Bomb Dungarees and it gets sore, even painful rubbing against the top of the waistband for any period of time. I would have to make sure the waistband of my boxers shields my skin from the rough fabric.
While there is decent stretch for such a heavyweight material, the toughness of material would overcome the stretch at times. For example, I could feel my pants slipping down my ass when I squat.
Slim vs Strong vs Bomb Dungarees
If you are deciding between these three Outlier classics, it might be hard for you to make out the difference, especially if you haven't been in the Outlier game long enough. Many of Outlier's pants look the same to the layman as they carry the same minimalist aesthetics.
The main difference between these three is the fabric, specifically the weight of the fabric.
Material | Price | Fabric Weight | |
Slim Dungarees | Workcloth (82% nylon, 16% polyester, 2% elastane) | $198 | 275gsm |
Strong Dungarees | Strongtwill (96% nylon, 4% elastane) | $198 | 300gsm |
Bomb Dungarees | Bombtwill (96% nylon, 4% elastane) | $225 | 360gsm |
As you can see, there is a difference in material between Slim Dungarees and the other two.
The step up in weight doesn't look significant between the Slim and the Strong. In actual usage, the Strong does feel heavier and less stretchy than the Slim, even with a higher percentage of elastane.
The Strong and Bomb are largely the same material but with a relatively huge step up in weight. While the Strong feels sturdy and durable, the Bomb Dungarees feel like true Carhartt-level workpants. There is also a $27 price difference between the two.
Which you should get depends on the temperature and situations in which you will be wearing these. The cooler the temperature and harsher the environment, the higher the weight you should go for.
From an aesthetical perspective, the style is similar, but I love the rustic and hardwearing feel of the Strong Dungarees and Bomb Dungarees just a little more. But, this is coming from someone who owns way too many technical pants.
Conclusion
As expected, there isn't any surprises when it comes to the Bomb Dungarees. It uses familiar materials and style with the signature Outlier aesthetics and attention to details.
For fans of Outlier who has gotten enough of their technical stuff, the Bomb Dungarees is a befitting Outlier modern (and premium) take on the good ol' workpants. For fans of workpants, it might be also worth considering the Outlier Duckworks or Outlier Bombpaints.
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Tagged bombtwill outlier pant review two-way stretch workwear