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Details
- Price $220 at meermin.com
- Material Softcalf,
Overview
Few shoes have remained as relevant as the penny loafer. Originally inspired by Norwegian slip-on shoes in the early 1900s, the style became popular in America after G.H. Bass introduced the Weejuns (the shoes that Micheal Jackson wears) in the 1930s.
The leather strap across the vamp featured a small cut-out that was just large enough to hold a penny, giving rise to the name “penny loafer.” Since then, it has become a staple that sits comfortably between casual sneakers and formal dress shoes.
I wanted a pair for a slightly different reason. Living in Southeast Asia, I spend most of my time in tropical weather where putting on socks and lace-up shoes often feels unnecessary. I wanted something I could simply slip on before heading out for dinner, grabbing a coffee, or going on a casual date, while still looking more put together than wearing sneakers or sandals. That made an unlined loafer particularly appealing, and the Meermin Softcalf Penny Loafers seemed to tick all the right boxes.
Meermin has built a reputation for offering goodyear welted shoes at prices that undercut many established heritage shoemakers. Rather than chasing fashion trends, the Spanish brand focuses on classic designs, quality materials, and traditional construction that would normally cost considerably more.
The 514511 is part of Meermin's latest Nova Last collection. It combines a fully unlined French Softcalf upper with the company's Flex Goodyear welt construction, aiming to deliver the durability of a welted shoe without the stiffness that often comes with it. On paper, it sounds like the ideal everyday loafer for warmer climates.
Style
The 514511 Black Softcalf Penny Loafer leans towards relaxed elegance rather than formal dress.
Unlike sharper penny loafers with elongated toes and higher heels, the new Nova last has a softer round toe and flatter profile. The result feels modern without chasing trends. It looks equally natural with tailored trousers, chinos, jeans, or shorts.
Being fully unlined also changes the overall character. The leather collapses slightly around the foot rather than holding a rigid shape, giving the loafer a more effortless appearance, perfect for my tropical weather use case. I go sockless despite having sweaty feet, aiming for that effortless Italian look.
Black can sometimes make casual loafers feel overly formal, but the relaxed last and softer construction prevent that. Instead, it lands somewhere between a dress shoe and an everyday casual shoe. I wear it with relaxed shorts or linen long pants, rolling it up to show a little of my feet, which I find adds to the laidback vibe.
For many people, this could easily become the one loafer that works across almost every outfit.
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Material
The upper uses Meermin's French Softcalf leather, one of their most popular leathers for good reason.
Softcalf offers a nice balance between softness and durability. It feels supple from the start while still having enough body to age well over time. Unlike heavily corrected leathers, it retains a natural grain and develops character with wear instead of simply looking worn out.
The fully unlined construction is one of the biggest highlights.
Without a leather lining underneath, the shoe becomes noticeably lighter and more flexible. It also allows the upper leather to mould to your feet much faster than traditional lined loafers.
Construction is Flex Goodyear welted rather than a standard Goodyear welt. Traditional Goodyear welted shoes are known for durability, but they can also feel stiff during the first few weeks. Flex Goodyear modifies the construction to improve flexibility while retaining the key benefit of being fully resoleable. It offers much of the longevity of traditional welting without the notoriously long break-in period.
Underneath sits Meermin's City Rubber sole. While leather soles arguably look slightly more elegant, rubber makes far more sense for everyday wear. It provides better grip in wet weather, wears more slowly, and requires less maintenance.
Usage
This is probably one of the easiest loafers to live with.
The unlined construction gives it an almost slipper-like feel from the first wear. Instead of spending weeks breaking them in, the shoes begin adapting to your feet almost immediately. They feel comfortable the first time I put them on sockless. With the loose structure, it's does get hard to slip them on without a shoe horn.
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The new Nova last also addresses one of the biggest complaints people often have with loafers: heel slip.
Loafers naturally have no laces to secure your foot, so some movement is normal. Meermin reshaped the heel to improve lockdown while keeping the forefoot relatively generous, making the overall fit feel more secure without becoming restrictive.
The wider forefoot is another welcome improvement. Many dress shoes squeeze the toes in pursuit of a slimmer silhouette, but the Nova last leaves enough room for your toes to spread naturally, making longer days noticeably more comfortable.
The rubber sole also makes these much easier to wear daily. Whether you're walking around the city, travelling, or commuting to work, there's less concern about slippery pavements or wearing through leather soles.
Perhaps the biggest advantage is versatility.
These are casual enough to wear with shorts in summer, yet refined enough to pair with tailored trousers or business casual outfits. Few shoes transition between those settings as effortlessly.
Like most quality leather shoes, they'll continue improving as the leather softens and develops patina over the years. Combined with the fully resoleable construction, this is the kind of shoe that can realistically stay in your rotation for a decade or more. I will be updating this post periodically with how well or badly it ages, so do check back.
Conclusion
The 514511 Black Softcalf Penny Loafer is a strong example of why Meermin has earned such a loyal following.
It combines quality leather, traditional construction, thoughtful design, and everyday practicality at a price that remains difficult to beat in the Goodyear welted market.
The fully unlined construction, comfortable Nova last, and flexible welt make it especially appealing for anyone who has previously been put off by the long break-in periods associated with traditional dress shoes.
At $220, it isn't an impulse purchase, but compared to similarly constructed loafers from heritage shoemakers, it represents excellent value.
If you're looking for a versatile pair of loafers that can handle everything from casual weekends to business casual offices while remaining resoleable for years to come, these deserve to be near the top of your shortlist.
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Tagged footwear goodyear welt leather meermin penny loafer review shoe