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Details
- Price $169 at weargustin.com
- Material 99% cotton 1% polyester
- Fabric Weight 12.5 gsm
- Made in USA
Overview
I used to be a denim head, even visiting the denim mecca in Japan. These days, I am more into technical pants. But as my itch comes back, the Gustin Black X Black caught my eye.
I know the beauty of selvedge denim is seeing those whiskers and fades forming on the blue, but my obsession with black doesn't care. The only thing I cared about was the weight, since I wanted to review this in the middle of the brutal Tokyo summer.
Gustin built their reputation on direct-to-consumer selvedge, cutting out the bloated retail markup. The #286 is proof they still know how to balance price, fabric, and finish without pushing into the $300-plus territory that used to be standard for decent black denim.
Style
The Gustin Black X Black denim comes in vintage straight, straight, slim, and skinny. I went for the standard straight, which I think is age-appropriate. Noting that Gustin does not do vanity sizing, I got it in a size 36 after measuring my actual waist.
The fit was nice and relaxed. When first worn, the waist felt perfect, but it loosened throughout the first day, and like most raw denim, it will likely stretch out over time. My recommendation is to size down at least one or more.
The look is unapologetically dark: black warp, black weft, tonal stitching, and a black leather patch. It doesn’t scream for attention—no contrast stitching, no novelty fades out of the box—just clean, jet-black denim that you can wear year-round.
Apart from the beautiful selvage edge on the hems, one of the belt loops has it, giving it a distinct look.
The appeal here is subtle. Over time, the fabric softens to charcoal, revealing grain and texture. Early on, it pairs easily with everything: a black t-shirt for casual days or a button-down when you want a sharper edge. The tonal approach means it doesn’t clash with much, making it a solid base layer for just about any outfit. For footwear, it matches well with sandals, sneakers, and boots.
Material
The fabric comes in at 12.5oz selvedge, woven with 99% cotton and 1% polyester. That 1% makes all the difference—it softens the break-in and gives a bit of give during long days. It’s still raw, so you get the traditional wear-in journey, but with less of the fight. You can find full specs and availability here.
The selvedge edge carries a red ID, a detail that denim purists will appreciate, though it’s mostly for the wearer’s own satisfaction. The finish is raw, meaning you’re the one putting in the miles to bring out character. The leather patch and hardware are understated but solid—functional without being showy.
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Usage
The denim starts stiff like any, but when worn daily, it starts to ease up after a week or so, especially with that stretch. However, it’s not the stiff, punishing break-in you’d get from a 16oz or 21oz pair. Instead, you get comfort early on, which makes them easier to commit to as an everyday pair. I felt comfortable walking around Shibuya in the humid weather with my Gustin Black X Black jeans.
The stretch also means you don’t feel like you’re fighting the fabric when sitting at a desk or on a long flight. It flexes just enough without compromising the raw denim structure.
Over time, the all-black look will give way to smoky grays and subtle texture shifts. Don’t expect dramatic, high-contrast fades—more muted evolution. Think subtle grain rather than loud streaks.
I've only been wearing it for a couple of weeks to post this initial review. I will update this with fade progress over use — you can check current availability here.
Conclusion
The Gustin #286 Black X Black Stretch nails the balance between durability, wearability, and cost. At 12.5oz with just a touch of stretch, it’s approachable without losing the raw denim character.
If you want jet-black selvedge that won’t punish you during break-in, this is it. Not the flashiest denim, but dependable, versatile, and priced right—exactly what you want from a daily pair.
Additional Images
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I found a 100 year old company that would create these heirloom quality canisters for me. They are handmade and will keep your tea leaves, coffee beans or anything that you need dry for years to come.
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